Scilla — Castellesi
CASTELLESI COMUNE
Reggio Calabria, Calabria
A town of three quarters whose records survived disasters unevenly.
Scilla — triptych-wide | Wikimedia Commons

Scilla stands on the Strait of Messina about twenty kilometres north of Reggio, on the Costa Viola — a name Plato is said to have used for this water. Its rock, the Rocca , divides the town in two: Marina Grande with its beach on one side, Chianalea with the fishermen's houses standing in the sea on the other, and the Castello Ruffo above.

For a researcher the essential local fact is destruction and what survived it. Scilla was devastated by the earthquake and tsunami of 1783 and again by the earthquake of 1908 . Exactly one church came through both intact: the Chiesa dello Spirito Santo at Marina Grande, the oldest in the town. Where parish registers are concerned, that is not a picturesque detail — it is the survival question.

Scilla — intro-wide | Wikimedia Commons
The Patron
San Rocco
San Rocco is Scilla's listed patron. No FEAST field is supplied, so no feast date is added.
The Survival
Spirito Santo survived
The Chiesa dello Spirito Santo at Marina Grande is described as the only Scilla church to survive both the 1783 and 1908 earthquakes intact, making it particularly important when asking about parish-register survival.
The Landmark
Chiesa Spirito Santo
The Chiesa Spirito Santo is more than a surviving monument: in a town where most churches were repeatedly destroyed and rebuilt, it is the first parish to investigate for continuity of older ecclesiastical records.
Scilla — landmark | Wikimedia Commons
Did you know?
FIRST SETTLE THE CIRCONDARIO

The archive route depends on district

Scilla's 1809–1865 records are securely at Reggio, but later access depends on whether the comune belonged to the Reggio or Palmi circondario. Palmi's later registers were never transferred or microfilmed, so that distinction must be established before interpreting an online absence.
LA PARLATA
How they speak

The local speech is Calabrian, Strait of Messina and Costa Viola variety.

Quarter and circondario both matter

The name comes through Latin Scylla from Greek Skylla , and the monster of the Strait is the rock itself. The first fortification of it dates to the beginning of the fifth century BC , under the tyranny of Anaxilas , as a control point on the Tyrrhenian and a defence against pirates. Pliny the Elder calls the place Oppidum Scyllaeum — oppidum being the Latin for a large fortified settlement.

It held off Carthaginians and Bruttii in the third century BC, when it already had the shape of a genuine fortress, and it resisted the Saracen incursions of the ninth century. To that period belongs another foundation: historians attribute the monastery and church of San Pancrazio to the first Basilian monks, between the eighth and ninth centuries, fortified at the wish of Byzantium, which had charged the Fathers with defending the coasts of the Strait.

In the Norman period the castle was besieged and starved into surrender by Robert Guiscard . It was enlarged and enriched afterward by Charles I of Anjou and later by Ferdinand I of Naples .

In the first half of the sixteenth century — sources give 1533 and 1546 — it was bought by Paolo Ruffo , who converted the austere military stronghold into a noble residence, commissioned the restoration of the baronial palace and set the family arms over the entrance arch. The Ruffo took the title of princes here, and the castle enjoyed two prosperous centuries. In 1720 the Austrians fortified it against the Spanish.

Then 5 February 1783 . The great Calabrian earthquake, accompanied here by a tsunami , devastated the town. It is the watershed of Scilla's history, not only for the violence of the event but because it ended the economic growth the town had enjoyed through the whole eighteenth century. The castle became state property in 1808 and was restored in 1810 ; after the Napoleonic interval, the returning Bourbons established an urban guard at Scilla in 1827 .

Exactly a hundred and twenty-five years after the first, the earthquake of 28 December 1908 cost Scilla, and Messina across the water, thousands of dead. It destroyed much of the ancient structure of the castle. In 1913 the upper part was closed off to house the lighthouse of the Marina Militare, which is still there. Under Fascism some of the rooms were divided into flats for public employees, which damaged further what remained; for the last decades of the twentieth century the building served as a youth hostel; and after a recent restoration it has become a cultural centre, home to the regional centre for the recovery of Calabrian historic towns.

The Chiesa della Santissima Immacolata , the matrice , stands near the castle on the promontory. Its first building was very old, but it has been rebuilt repeatedly after the earthquakes; the present structure dates from the 1970s and was artistically completed only at the end of the 1990s. Chianalea keeps the eighteenth-century Santa Maria di Porto Salvo and the older San Giuseppe , along with Palazzo Scategna at the Scalo Araggio where fishermen have sheltered their boats for centuries, Palazzo Giordani of 1543 , and a fourteenth-century Casa Ruffo .

Scilla — story-01 | Wikimedia Commons
Scilla — story-02 | Wikimedia Commons
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From the passenger index

At least 1,701 people who gave Scilla as their home are recorded by name among Italian arrivals in the United States — each with the ship they sailed on and the day they landed.

A floor, not a total. The index covers arrivals through 1912, holds nothing between May 1907 and December 1911, and many passengers were written down with no home town at all. Where a name is there, it is there with its record.

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Ready to visit
The lane at sea level, then the terrace above it
Getting there

The nearest major airport is Lamezia Terme International Airport.

Scilla is easily reached from Reggio Calabria along the Strait, and it should be walked in three parts because it was lived in three parts.

Start in Chianalea : a single narrow lane behind houses that stand directly in the water, with the little harbour, Palazzo Scategna at the Scalo Araggio where the boats have always sheltered, Palazzo Giordani of 1543, the fourteenth-century Casa Ruffo and the churches of San Giuseppe and Santa Maria di Porto Salvo. This is the fishermen's Scilla.

Then the Castello Ruffo on the rock between the two beaches — fortified since the fifth century BC, a Ruffo residence from the 1500s, a lighthouse since 1913, and now a cultural centre. The view takes in the Strait, the Sicilian coast and, on a clear day, the Aeolians.

Then up to San Giorgio and Piazza San Rocco , the terrace built out on the rock, and down to Marina Grande for the Chiesa dello Spirito Santo — the one building in Scilla that survived both 1783 and 1908.

If your family turns out to be from the hamlets, drive up to Melia for the chestnut woods and the Grotte di Tremusa , the remains of a Pliocene seabed six hundred metres above the sea.

Family history
Where the records are
Scilla — closing | Wikimedia Commons

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