— Castellesi
Gerace stands at about 470 metres on a rock above the Locride, a Byzantine castron defended by concentric rings of wall pierced by twelve gates. It has so many churches, convents and monasteries that it has been called the città santa and the city of a hundred churches, and its cathedral is the largest Romanesque church in southern Italy.
For anyone researching this district, Gerace is not one comune among many. It is the parent of the coastal towns below it — Locri was its village until 1905 — and for a thousand years it was the seat of the diocese. Which makes one fact on this page more important than all the architecture: the episcopal see, and with it the archive , was transferred from Gerace to Locri in stages, amid controversy and resistance, and documents were lost in the process.
Gerace was both comune and diocesan centre
The local speech is Calabrian, Locride variety, over a long Greek-rite substratum.
Gerace was founded by refugees. The people of Locri Epizefiri withdrew from the coast between the end of the seventh century and the beginning of the eighth, driven off by Saracen raiding, and established a new settlement on this defensible height. They called it Santa Ciriaca , and the name appears in a document of 787 . The upper city keeps the Byzantine plan: a fortified castron with concentric walls and twelve gates.
The diocese moved with them, and its early history is unusually well attested for southern Calabria. The first bishop of Locri whose name is known is Dulcino , mentioned in a letter of Gregory the Great, who died in 594 ; Marciano followed from 598 , then Crescenzo (649), Stefano (680), Gregorio (died 709), Cristoforo (787) and Giorgio (870). In the eighth century the see was subjected to Constantinople and made suffragan of Reggio, adopting the Greek rite and becoming a home for Greek monks — among them, in the tenth century, Nicodemo , canonised by popular acclaim and still venerated locally.
The tenth century was hard. The diocese suffered continual Arab incursions, Gerace itself was sacked in 986 , and toward the end of the century its territory was reduced to make room for the new diocese of Bova .
In 1059 the Normans took Gerace under Robert Guiscard . They did not disrupt the diocese: the Byzantine rite was maintained and the Greek monasteries prospered more than before. What they did was build. The castle was fortified and the cathedral raised, and Gerace became a great building site. The first known bishop of the Norman period is Leonzio I , who in 1100 presided over the rebuilding of the monastery of San Filippo d'Argirò, and who may be the bishop under whom the cathedral works began in 1080 .
The Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta is the town's monument and one of the most important Norman buildings in Calabria — the largest Romanesque church in southern Italy, declared of national interest, and elevated to basilica minore on 8 September 2018 . Construction began in the late Byzantine period and finished under the Normans, which is visible in the projecting transept and the arrangement of the apses. Tradition, recorded on two plaques inside and in the Bollario of Bishop Ottaviano Pasqua at the end of the sixteenth century, gives its consecration as 1045 ; it was consecrated a second time in 1222 , most probably in the presence of Frederick II , then passing through Gerace.
It was built out of the city the founders had left. The twenty classical columns of the nave are reused from ancient Locri — from its temples and from the villas of the marina — with capitals partly ancient and partly remade. Beneath the transept lies a crypt on a Greek-cross plan with Roman columns, whose origins appear to go back to the primitive eighth-century place of worship, built directly on bare rock. Of the three apses only the northern one is original; the other two are fifteenth-century reconstructions by the Caracciolo counts after a ruinous earthquake. The Baroque high altar in polychrome marbles is the work of the Palazzotto brothers of Catania and the Messinese artist Amato.
The cathedral's later history is a sequence of damage, collapse and repair, culminating in the earthquake of 1783 and the abandonment that followed, then careful restoration. The Norman castle at the top of the town is now a ruin, destroyed by the successive earthquakes. The main street through the borgo is via Zaleuco , named for the lawgiver of the Greek city these people came from.
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EXPLORE CALABRIA →From the passenger index
At least 2,683 people who gave Gerace as their home are recorded by name among Italian arrivals in the United States — each with the ship they sailed on and the day they landed.
A floor, not a total. The index covers arrivals through 1912, holds nothing between May 1907 and December 1911, and many passengers were written down with no home town at all. Where a name is there, it is there with its record.
Have Orso look for your family →The nearest major airport is Lamezia Terme International Airport.
Gerace is a short drive inland and uphill from Locri, and it is one of the best-preserved medieval towns in the south — preserved, in large part, because it was abandoned rather than rebuilt.
Walk up through the Città Alta , the Byzantine castron with its rings of wall and its gates, along via Zaleuco , named for the lawgiver of the Greek city these people fled from. At the top, the ruins of the Norman castle , brought down by the earthquakes.
Then the Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta : the largest Romanesque church in southern Italy, consecrated in 1045 and again in 1222 before Frederick II, its twenty nave columns carried up here from the temples and villas of ancient Locri . Go down into the crypt — a Greek cross on Roman columns, cut into bare rock, on the site of the eighth-century church the refugees built when they first arrived.
And then simply look at how many churches there are. For a descendant of this district, the useful exercise at Gerace is not to see one building but to grasp the scale of what a small town on a rock once was — and to stand on the edge and look down at the coastal plain your family eventually went back to.
Archives and registers
Gerace is the comune heading for the whole coastal district before 1905. And its diocesan archive was moved to Locri in stages, with documented losses - so absence there proves less than it appears to.
Archivio di Stato di Reggio Calabria on Antenati
The holdings statement: 1809-1865 for all comuni with processetti and Atti diversi, 1866-1900 for the Reggio and Locri-Gerace circondari, and leva lists for classes 1834-1944.
antenati.cultura.gov.itArchivio di Stato di Reggio Calabria, Sezione di Locri
The section holding the post-unification civil status of the Locri circondario, with its span given variously as 1866-1900 and 1900-1980.
antenati.cultura.gov.itSIUSA - Diocesi di Locri-Gerace
Records that the transfer of the episcopal see, and with it the archive, from Gerace to Locri took place in stages amid controversy and caused further depletion and loss of documents. The citation to keep when a diocesan search comes back empty.
siusa-archivi.cultura.gov.itBeWeB - Diocesi di Locri-Gerace
The diocesan history, including the Byzantine period under Constantinople, the Greek rite, the sack of 986, the loss of territory to Bova, and the note that Locri became the cathedral only in 1954 - with a full published bibliography.
beweb.chiesacattolica.itAntenati - browse the registers
Search Gerace for any Locride coastal family before 1905, and check Locri, Antonimina, Ardore and Siderno in the same search.
antenati.cultura.gov.itThe journey does not end at the boundary of one comune. The province, the region and the neighbouring towns often hold the rest of the picture.
Your Roots. Their Story. Your Place.
Gerace is more than a place on a map. It is a part of you.
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