Taormina — Castellesi
CASTELLESI COMUNE
Messina, Sicilia
A famous hill town whose working families often lived below the postcard.
Taormina — triptych-wide | Wikimedia Commons

Taormina sits on a terrace of Monte Tauro at about 206 metres, between the Ionian sea and Etna. It has one of the finest surviving ancient theatres in the Mediterranean, a street plan that still follows the Greek grid, and a reputation as a destination that goes back to the Grand Tour .

That reputation is the thing to set aside when researching a family. Taormina became a resort in the nineteenth century, which meant its ordinary people increasingly worked in an economy owned by outsiders — and it meant many of them lived not on the famous terrace but in the coastal hamlets below it. Where your ancestors lived within the comune is the first question, and it is usually not where the postcards are.

Taormina — intro-wide | Wikimedia Commons
The Patron
San Pancrazio
Pancrazio di Taormina is the listed patron, celebrated on 9 July. His church stands directly over an earlier Greek sanctuary.
The Hamlets
Mazzarò, Mazzeo and Villagonia
Taormina includes coastal and lower settlements such as Mazzarò, Mazzeo, Villagonia and Trappitello. Their residents registered civilly as Taormina even though their parish and working lives were distinct from the hill town.
The Landmark
Duomo di Taormina
The Duomo di Taormina is the principal church of the hill town. A family from Mazzarò or another lower settlement may instead appear in a separate local parish even while the civil act says Taormina.
Taormina — landmark | Wikimedia Commons
Did you know?
CIVIL AND PARISH GEOGRAPHY DIVERGE

The comune includes several separate settlements

Taormina civil records cover the hill town and its lower hamlets, but parish records follow each settlement's church. Castelmola and Giardini Naxos are separate comuni, so families moving only a short distance can cross into entirely different registries.
LA PARLATA
How they speak

The local speech is Sicilian, Ionian Messinese variety.

Taormina includes the shore

The origins are genuinely disputed by the ancient sources themselves. Diodorus Siculus has Sikels living on the mountain before the Chalcidian Greeks landed in the bay below and founded Naxos ; Strabo has the town founded by Naxians who fled up to Monte Tauro. The conventional date for Tauromenion is around 358 BC .

It was a real Greek city. Its street plan followed the grid principles associated with Hippodamus of Miletus — orthogonal streets parallel to two main axes, which are today's Corso Umberto (the ancient Via Consolare Valeria) and the Via Teatro Greco — and that plan is still legible in the walled town between the Torre dell'Orologio and Via San Pancrazio. Inscriptions from the site name its public administrators: the tamiai who managed the treasury, the hieromnamones who kept the sacred things, the agoranomoi who policed the market. A marble stele lists the gymnasiarchs .

The theatre on Monte Croce was built in the Hellenistic period, in the third century BC under Hieron II — Greek inscriptions on its seats resemble those at Syracuse — then almost entirely rebuilt at the end of the first century AD and enlarged in the first half of the second. It combines both traditions: a Greek cavea cut into the rock, a Roman scene building. Also Roman are the Odeon , imperial baths, and the Naumachie , a long brick terrace wall with eighteen great apsed niches supporting a cistern.

During the Servile War of 134–132 BC rebel slaves held the town. By Strabo's day it was a small place, lesser than Messina or Catania. After the Vandal siege the theatre was abandoned, and in the Middle Ages its scene building and stair towers were converted into a palace.

The medieval and early modern town left the buildings still standing on the Corso: the fourteenth-century Badia Vecchia , adapted from a Norman defensive tower; the thirteenth-century Palazzo dei Duchi di Santo Stefano ; Palazzo Ciampoli ; and the fifteenth-century Palazzo Corvaja , where in 1411 the first Sicilian Parliament assembled under Queen Bianca of Navarre , who used the building as a summer residence.

The modern town is a nineteenth-century creation of a different kind. Taormina became a fixed point of the Grand Tour, then a resident colony of foreign artists and writers — Robert Hawthorn Kitson's Casa Cuseni is the surviving monument of that world — and by the twentieth century a resort. The theatre, silent since antiquity, became a stage again from the 1950s.

Taormina — story-01 | Wikimedia Commons
Taormina — story-02 | Wikimedia Commons
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From the passenger index

At least 242 people who gave Taormina as their home are recorded by name among Italian arrivals in the United States — each with the ship they sailed on and the day they landed.

A floor, not a total. The index covers arrivals through 1912, holds nothing between May 1907 and December 1911, and many passengers were written down with no home town at all. Where a name is there, it is there with its record.

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Ready to visit
Walk the Greek grid, then go down to the water
Getting there

The nearest major airport is Palermo, Catania, Trapani, or Comiso Airport, depending on the destination.

Taormina is reached from the coast road or the station at Giardini, then a climb. The walled town is small and entirely walkable, and its shape is ancient: Corso Umberto runs the line of the Roman consular road along one axis, Via Teatro Greco crosses it, and the side streets still meet at right angles.

The theatre is the reason most people come, and it deserves the time — but for a descendant the more useful hour is spent at the Naumachie , the Odeon and the little church of San Pancrazio , where the layers are stacked visibly on one another.

Then go down. Mazzarò and the coves below the cliff, Villagonia , Trappitello in the valley: these are where working families lived, and the difference between the terrace and the shore is the difference between the town's reputation and its life. If you have time, climb the other way to Castelmola for the view back over the whole comune.

Family history
Where the records are
Taormina — closing | Wikimedia Commons

Your Roots. Their Story. Your Place.

Taormina is more than a place on a map. It is a part of you.

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